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Replace Driveshaft or Just CV Joint?

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

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instarx
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Replace Driveshaft or Just CV Joint?

Post by instarx »

I noticed some vibration on a trip earlier in the month, and now after I park I can feel heat from under the car where the front driveshaft CV joint is getting hot. Also there is some clunking from the front of the driveshaft when I put it in reverse. Time for some driveshaft work I suspect.

My question: has anyone replaced just the CV joint instead of the entire driveshaft? Colorado Driveshaft sells the CV joint for $100, and the entire driveshaft assembly for $400. That's quite a saving. Of course the driveshaft assembly will be balanced as a whole but I don't know if that is a big deal when just replacing the joint.

As tempting as it is to replace only the defective part, I am leaning towards replacing the entire driveshaft.
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Post by JDS60R »

That front joint takes most of the abuse. Repacking the joint can really help if it is still in tolerance. But a clunk does suggest wear either in the angle gear,trans or joint. Sounds like you already narrowed it down to the joint.

If its the front joint only you can replace the front and repack the center and back. If the budget allows you could always just replace the the entire shaft. It would be an easier job to replace the entire shaft.

I have been using a great grease for this application that a large axle rebuilder turned me on to. I don't want to list it and start another lubricant flame war. If you want the info just PM me.

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Post by precopster »

I've replaced just the CV joint on the wife's 850 and it was an experience I'd rather forget. The clip to release the joint can be seen easily enough but releasing it with circlip pliers is near impossible (well it was for me anyhow)

So I ended up using my OEM cage because I ground out the CV inner section and accessing the clip by releasing all the balls individually so the 2 sections could be separated. Then I used the new inner section and balls.

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Post by MoVolvos »

-
Did a Joint replacement on a VW Rabbit in the mid-80's and after that it has always been an entire Half-shaft or as a stop gap Split Boots after a through cleaning and repacking with CV Grease. Go with a New EMPI Half-shaft as $400 seems very, very steep!

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Post by BEJinFbk »

OP is talking about the front CV joint on the
driveshaft that runs to the rear diff on an AWD.
Whole different job.

That CV lives just a few inches from the downpipe
and the heat kills the boot. All down hill from there.

The good news is that the replacement is pretty straight forward.
And buying, shipping and replacing just the joint is MUCH cheaper!
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Post by precopster »

BEJinFbk wrote:OP is talking about the front CV joint on the driveshaft that runs to the rear diff on an AWD. Whole different job.
Hmm I always thought that the design and construction of an outer CV was pretty much the same regardless of which axle it comes from. It will have a cage, a shaft and ball cage. The procedure to remove may vary but I'm sure there's no great departure from the basic design of a CV joint.

I had a quick look at Vadis tonight. It has the same PITA clip somewhere in the inner shaft (though at the rear differential instead of at the gearbox) and a clip on the outer to separate the outer CV. I've worked on all types of cars and one CV joint looks pretty much the same as another. Even the CV fitting guys prefer whole shafts; easier, quicker and you know it'll be back together within the hour. Sometimes even after the clip is removed the CV stays on the shaft and you need a really heavy duty vice to hold it while you bash the old one off, especially if it's an aftermarket type.
If you do just the outer expect it to take pretty much the whole day.
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Post by cn90 »

I know you are talking about the Drive shaft CV Joint.

Most CV Joints are made by GKN-Lobro, which does not sell these joints to the aftermarket.
However, some people like Marty at Raxles or Colorado Driveshaft can get them.
If you are sure the CV Joint comes from GKN-Lobro, then $100 is cheap.
Stay away from the Chinese stuff.

This is conceptually similar to a BMW E39 Rear CV Joint (just in front of the rear differential).
In fact, GKN-Lobro designs the same CV Joint for many many different cars (BMW, Porsche, Volvo, etc.):

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5 ... -done.html
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Post by MoVolvos »

BEJinFbk wrote:OP is talking about the front CV joint on the
driveshaft that runs to the rear diff on an AWD.
Whole different job.
Thanks for the clarification BEJinFbk.

precopster wrote:
BEJinFbk wrote:OP is talking about the front CV joint on the driveshaft that runs to the rear diff on an AWD. Whole different job.
Hmm I always thought that the design and construction of an outer CV was pretty much the same regardless of which axle it comes from. It will have a cage, a shaft and ball cage. The procedure to remove may vary but I'm sure there's no great departure from the basic design of a CV joint.

I had a quick look at Vadis tonight. It has the same PITA clip somewhere in the inner shaft (though at the rear differential instead of at the gearbox) and a clip on the outer to separate the outer CV.
Thanks for the info precopster and yes the Joint is a PITUKnoWhat.

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Post by holler1 »

The first time I had trouble with the CV joint on the rear driveshaft (propshaft), I replaced just the CV joint with a kit. I didn't do it myself. I was a little intimidated by it and paid a local mechanic to install it. That only lasted a year or so before it went bad again, although I can't personally say it was done exactly right. The second time I bought the whole shaft from Colorado Driveshaft, and that has lasted several years, although I haven't been driving the car a lot lately. I would recommend getting the whole shaft, especially if you have any concern about the other parts of the shaft.
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Post by instarx »

Thanks for all the input - very helpful. I'm going to get the entire driveshaft. Bolt-off/bolt-on has a lot going for it. I'll take a look at the front CV joint when I get the driveshaft off and let people know how easy or hard it looks to remove just the joint. Don't hold your breath though - starting this week the car is going to sit in my garage for a year while I am out of the country.
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