Volvo Alternative flange sealants Permatex Loctite 51813 51817 Volvo 30644517

[JimBee]

Apologies if this post belongs in a different forum, but since any internal work on our white blocks requires an anaerobic sealant and Volvo's is so expensive, it seems appropriate to get the message out to anyone doing repairs who might like to try a cheaper alternative.

Some options:
Loctite 574 (utube video)
Data sheet on 574: http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/93789_574EN.pdf


Permatex 51813 (18 reviews, most very positive)
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-51813-An ... ewpoints=1

There is also a 51817, which I presume is a slight chemical variation from the 51813. One commenter on the 51813 wrote that the 13 works better on aluminum cases. I'll try to get more specific information and post back.

Curil (mentioned on a Porsche forum)
https://www.amazon.com/Curil-Hardening-G ... B00HLSUXH4

This lineup from a Google search:
https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=c ... %20sealant

The several main concerns are does it effectively seal the mating surfaces, does the seal hold up to temperature and contact with oil and can parts be disassembled if necessary? Permatex, at the lower price point, seems to pass these tests.

Apparently there has been a corporate marriage between Loctite and Permatex and in some forum discussions, there are claims that the chemical formulations of some of these products, such as Loctite 574 and Permatex 518 are identical. I'll try to get more info on that. The Permatex variety seems to be the most popular, possibly for the price point. Can't beat the price if it really works like all those commenters say it does.

[erikv11]

Cool, great info.

A lot of people on the Volvo forums have said the Permatex (51813) works well for oil pans and valve covers, consistent with these reports.

[Ozark Lee]

Curil K2 is pure crap, it is too runny. I sealed a sump with it and it leaked like a sieve.

After that frustration and having to do the job over again I just bite the bullet and buy the real deal pink stuff. It never leaks. I have heard that some people use one of the Permetex products and it has reportedly worked OK but I have no hands on with it.

...Lee

[precopster]

On one of the 850 whiteblocks I used the Victor Reinz sealant sold by FCP on the valve cover and sump; it's not anaerobic sealer but at the time I didn't know any better. I drove it for 6,000miles then sold the car without leaks.

On all others I've used the real stuff.

[JimBee]

I think I raised this question before: What really is the real stuff? Volvo doesn't make it, do they? Some chemical company that has extensive experience with these formulations must make the Volvo sealant.

Especially after looking into this a little more (this time searching on "anaerobic flange sealant" which I don't think I had previously), I believe we're being taken for a ride with the Volvo stuff. Insiders probably have a good laugh over our fear driven brand loyalty — and what we're willing to ante up to maintain it.

Most likely, Permatex or their corporate sibling, Loctite, make the "real stuff" for Volvo. As per Lee's comment, it's probably not made by the Curil company.

As I said, I'll try to get better spec's from Permatex on their 518xx product to shed a little more light on it.

[Ozark Lee]

I don't know who makes it but, at least by color and even texture, it isn't like anything else I have ever encountered under another brand / label. I understand your frustration though since it is just stupid expensive. That is why I tried the Curil in the first place.

...Lee

[JimBee]

Last summer I first used the Volvo sealant on my 850 camshaft cap. I think I used a foam roller to apply it. I remember feeling a bit unnerved about leaving just a thin layer of this stuff that didn't seem to have much body to it. But it hasn't leaked, so, yeah, the stuff works.

The Loctite 574 video reminded me of the appearance of the applied product, though the tech ran a bead and rolled that out. Once it was rolled out, it kind of looked the same. The Volvo sealant couldn't be applied that way just because of how the tube is made, if I recall correctly. But theoretically, if the tube had a nozzle, it probably could be applied that way— which would be more efficient b/c you wouldn't waste the amount that's left in the tray.

My inner conspiracy theorist tells me that their proprietary tube is one more way to camouflage the manufacturer.

[txdave13]

I used the Volvo sealant after doing my headgasket a couple of months ago. I don't know if I didn't let it cure enough, but it leaked like a sieve up by the cam gears. When I pulled the cam cover, there were big areas (1" or so) where there was no sealant.

I used the Permatex sealant along with the activator spray when I redid it a couple of weeks back. I let it set for a couple of days before I put it back into service. No complaints thus far.

[erikv11]

With the pink Volvo sealant (actually the only one I have tried), I smudge a little bit at a time on the roller as needed and then spread it, I don't use any kind of tray. Then the little roller goes back in the plastic blister pack it sold in until the next time I need it, the sealant left on the roller stays wet like the sealant left in the tube. This way there is not so much wasted. I sealed three or four oil pans and at least four cam covers on the one tube I have bought so far. The only time the pink stuff has ever leaked on me was when I was resealing a gouged disaster of a cam cover, that one took two tries because I missed a big burr that was holding up one corner of the cover.

I'm out of sealant now, hoping I won't need to buy it soon ...

[JimBee]

I have a partial tube of the Volvo sealant left over from a camshaft cap redo last summer. I think it has a "use by" date. Maybe that's one more trick Volvo uses to sell more. Wouldn't put it past them.